中国奢侈品消费者年轻人在想什么?| Chinese Luxury Consumers Redefined

中国奢侈品消费者在全球享有极高的知名度,曾有数据显示全球近一半的奢侈品都是中国人买的。近年来,这个数据依然庞大,但却呈现不断下降的趋势。让人不禁疑惑:中国的消费者怎么了?奢侈品市场在中国的发展都经历了哪些阶段?

China luxury market keeps evolving fast. What do brands need to know to keep up with a new generation of consumers?

早期阶段 | Early stage

中国最早一批的奢侈品消费者根本不在乎品牌,他们只是需要有足够高价格的产品将自己和其他人区分开来。对他们来说,LV、Prada没什么本质区别,都属于“很贵、很有身份”的奢侈品,重要的是“我”能买得起。在这个阶段,奢侈品只是消费者用来宣示自己作为“上流”社会阶层的特权。这点从当时的广告大片就不难发现,Prada两季不同系列的手袋,广告片的风格、模特的妆容,甚至是姿势和表情都惊人得相似。

Gone are the days, when Chinese consumers sought high-priced, logoed items to show off their high status. At the beginning of the luxury era, about 10 years ago, buyers wanted to be recognized as part of a privileged social class— and that willingness drove high-end brands sales. You can also see it in the ads, where the coveted product was in the focus, surrounded by unexpressive, same-look models. The product alone was enough to engage consumers.

暴发户VS上流阶层 | New Money VS Old Money

几年之后,“暴发户”这个新“物种”的出现及其在时尚圈展现出的惊人购买力,反而这在一定程度上改变了奢侈品原有的市场格局。大量的社会资源和财富让这群人的社会地位在一夜之间发生了巨大转变,没有足够的时间接受良好的时尚教育和提升自己的时尚品味,却亟需高端大气上档次的物品来彰显自己的身份,最终导致了他们“不求最好,但求最贵”的消费信条。这群人的出现让那些真正有品味的上层阶级急于和他们划清界线,转而投向更能突显自己高雅和独特品味的品牌的怀抱。

A few years later, along with the emerging of nouveau riche spenders willing to pay any amount for their new elite status symbols, the luxury attitude started to change as well. The old money class aimed not to be associated with the emerging riches, often perceived as ‘tasteless’, and gradually shifted towards sophistication and exclusivity of luxury products.

洞察到这个消费诉求之后,一些奢侈品牌开始挖掘自己品牌背后的故事、价值和相关的经历。与第一批奢侈品牌购买大军不同的是,在这个阶段,消费者的身份和阶级地位已经相对稳定,问题变成了奢侈品牌要如何采取行动来证明自己的价值。

That trend reflected a need for brands to go above and beyond. It was necessary for them to provide the stories behind the brand name, and the values and the experiences associated with their products. Unlike the first wave of luxury buyers in China, in this further stage, consumers were secure in their status, and it was up to luxury brands to prove them their worth.

第一个准确把握这一趋势的品牌是法国资深奢侈品牌代表——路易·威登。他们其实很早就对此有所觉察,开始转变品牌的定位和营销策略,以“旅途和发现”为主题讲述自己的品牌故事。2010年推出的那句代表品牌核心价值理念的Slogan——“有些旅程能改变你的一生”——可以说是深入人心,与那些将一生都投入到不断探索和发现的高端消费者高度契合,引起了他们的深度共鸣,也传递出了强烈的品牌个性。

One of the first luxury houses to identify the new trend was Louis Vuitton. Very early the brand shifted its positioning, promoting the idea of journey and discovery as ‘fil rouge’ of its own story. Stemming from this, already in 2010, the French company created its stunning “core values” campaign – supported by inspiring taglines, such as “Some journeys change mankind forever”. Legendary characters, who have devoted their lives to exploration and remarkable missions, replaced the same-look models in LV ads.

现阶段 | Present

2017年的奢侈品市场又是一副全新的景象。一方面,全球奢侈品市场逐渐回温,中国的“千禧一代”已成长为能够主导整个消费市场的主流消费人群。Forrester Research最新的一项研究显示,66%的中国千禧一代是高收入者,这背后蕴藏着巨大的商机;另一方面,对于80后、90后、甚至95后而言,虽然每个群体都有自己的特征,但是成长于数字时代,浸润在互联网文化土壤下的他们,拥有更加独立而多元的思想,他们更愿意花钱在获取不同的生活体验上。

In 2017, we are witnessing the new wave of luxury shopping transformation. As Chinese Millennials mature, brands have been struggling to understand how to redefine ‘luxury’ to resonate with these consumers of today and of the near future. The post-80’s, 90’s and 95’s luxury consumers are digital savvies and world travelers with a deep understanding of luxury goods and brands, which they leverage to express and elevate themselves. Thus, they relate to products with a personality that embody experiences, which speak to them.

更加优越的生活和教育条件让他们更加自信,奢侈品对于他们的意义不再停留在以往的炫富阶段,而是一种自我认知的表达和自我实现的愿望。因而,追求一切新鲜事物,强调“活在当下”的他们,对首选品牌很难做到忠诚,想要说服这群有钱又聪明的人认同自己的品牌似乎不再像之前那样容易。

To dig deeper, this generation has shifted from long-term life planning to “value of today”, to the enjoyment of instant gratification. This new mindset becomes even more significant if associated with the tremendous cultural and economic change, and the emerging global vision Chinese Millennials have grown up in.

因此,品牌需要做的不再是简单地给他们所需要的,而是站在他们的立场上为其发声,说出他们想说的话,表达他们想要的态度,并与他们所倡导的生活方式建立密切联系。无论是社交网络也好,线下体验也罢,如何用更加有趣的故事获取他们的关注并打动他们才是最重要的。至于说谁能在这场没有硝烟的战争中胜出,只有交给市场来判断了。

It’s clear that it is now necessary for brands to build and express well a completely new system of values, which speaks to each of the core pillars that define this self-aware and thoughtful generation. Who will stand up to the challenge and get out of it with sales jump?

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